What Does Mascara Do? Volume, Length, Curl and Waterproof Formulas

Mascara coats the lashes with pigment, wax and film-forming polymers. The pigment darkens them, the wax adds thickness and the polymer holds the shape, so the eye looks larger and more defined.

Formula Types

• Volumising: heavier wax content coats each lash thickly. Too Faced Better Than Sex ($30) is the reference product.
• Lengthening: contains fibres or stretchy polymers that extend the tip of the lash. Maybelline Sky High ($13) does this at drugstore price.
• Curling: stiffer film that holds lashes up as it dries. Dior Diorshow Iconic Overcurl ($34) is built around this.
• Tubing: wraps each lash in a polymer tube that slides off with warm water — best for watery eyes and contact lens wearers.

The Brush Matters as Much as the Formula

A big, bushy brush deposits a lot of product and creates volume. A thin silicone wand separates and reaches the inner corner and lower lashes. A curved wand pushes lashes upward. Many people prefer swapping one formula between two wand types over changing brands.

Waterproof: When It Is Worth It

Waterproof mascara resists tears, sweat and humidity but is drying to the lashes and needs an oil-based remover, and rubbing it off causes lash loss over time. Use it for events, swimming and hot weather; use a regular or tubing formula daily.

Technique

Wipe the excess off the wand, start at the root and wiggle upward — most of the visual impact comes from a dark line right at the lash base. Add a second coat while the first is still wet; once it dries, another layer clumps. Curl before mascara, never after.

Replace It Every 3 Months

Mascara is the shortest-lived product in a makeup bag. The wet, dark tube is a good environment for bacteria and repeated pumping pushes air in. Pumping also dries it out — swirl the wand instead.