What Does Lipstick Do? Matte, Satin, Liquid and Long-Wear Compared

Lipstick adds colour, definition and, depending on the formula, moisture or a matte finish to the lips. Because the lips have no oil glands and a very thin barrier, the base of a lipstick matters as much as the pigment.

Finishes

• Matte: high pigment, low oil, long wearing, visually thins the lips and emphasises texture. MAC Ruby Woo ($24) is the classic.
• Satin / cream: balanced comfort and colour, the everyday default. Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet ($48), Dior Rouge Dior ($49).
• Sheer / balm-tint: low pigment, high oil, comfortable, needs frequent reapplication.
• Liquid matte: solvents evaporate and leave a pigment film that survives eating and drinking, at the cost of dryness.

Why Matte Feels Dry

Long wear comes from removing the oils and adding film formers and volatile solvents. That is also what pulls water out of the lip surface. Exfoliate gently, apply a balm 10 minutes before, blot it, then apply colour.

Lip Liner

Liner does three things: it stops feathering into the lines around the mouth, it lets you subtly reshape the lip, and — when you fill the whole lip with it — it doubles the wear time of whatever you put on top. Charlotte Tilbury's Pillow Talk range ($35) became famous largely for the liner-lipstick pairing.

Choosing a Shade

Neutral "your lips but better" shades sit one or two tones deeper than your natural lip. Cool blue-reds make teeth look whiter; warm orange-reds suit golden undertones and look sunnier on olive skin.

Is Luxury Lipstick Worth It?

Pigment quality at the drugstore is now excellent. What you pay for at $45-50 is texture, scent, the weight and refillability of the case, and shade curation. Dior and Chanel both sell refills, which lowers the long-term cost and the packaging waste.