What Does a Moisturiser Do? Humectants, Emollients and Occlusives
How moisturisers work, the three ingredient classes, choosing by skin type, and why a $19 cream can outperform a $215 one.
A moisturiser has one core job: keep water in the skin and support the barrier that holds it there. A healthy barrier means less irritation, less flaking, fewer breakouts and better tolerance of actives like retinol.
Three Ingredient Classes
- Humectants pull water in: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, panthenol.
- Emollients fill the gaps between skin cells and make the surface feel smooth: squalane, ceramides, fatty acids, plant oils.
- Occlusives slow evaporation: petrolatum, shea butter, dimethicone, lanolin.
A good moisturiser contains all three. CeraVe Moisturising Cream ($19 for 454 g) is a textbook example — glycerin plus three ceramides plus petrolatum.
Matching to Skin Type
Oily / acne-prone: gel or lotion, non-comedogenic, niacinamide-friendly. Skipping moisturiser makes oiliness worse, not better. Dry: rich cream with ceramides and an occlusive, applied to damp skin. Combination: a lotion overall, a richer cream only on dry patches. Sensitive / rosacea: short ingredient list, no fragrance, no essential oils. Clinique Dramatically Different ($36) built its reputation here. Mature: richer emollients plus peptides or retinol at night.
Day vs Night
A daytime moisturiser should be light enough to sit under sunscreen and makeup. A night cream can be richer, since there is no occlusion problem under a pillow, and is where you pair retinol or heavier oils.
Does Price Buy Performance?
Crème de la Mer costs $215 for 30 ml; Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream $290; La Prairie Skin Caviar $690. They are pleasant, well-made and heavily researched in marketing terms, but no clinical evidence shows them outperforming a well-formulated ceramide cream at a twentieth of the price. Spend on sunscreen and retinol; economise on moisturiser if budget matters.
How to Apply
Apply to slightly damp skin within a minute of cleansing so the humectants have water to grab. Use upward, gentle motions, and extend down the neck, which ages faster than the face and is usually neglected.
Disclaimer
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